Lobster Season Opener
August 9, 2011
It’s that time again! I can’t stress enough how much I wait for this time of year. I’m all ready with my new mask for the start of Lobster season here in the Bahamas. Starting August 1st, lobster season in the Bahamas runs through to March 31st and will have every local and many foreign divers out next week for its opening.
The bulk of the lobster catch here in the Bahamas is commercial, trapped by “lobster pots” type of fishing but for the bulk of us who love the taste of truly fresh lobster, we’ll be in the water on August 1st with our Hawaiian slings and spears looking through the rocks and coral heads for the elusive crawfish!
Last year we had the great pleasure and privilege of heading to the Bahamas lobster fishing capital north of Grand Bahama to the northwest end of the Abacos to Grand Cay. This tiny island processes thousands of pounds of lobster every year as they make their way up the shelf from the deep Atlantic and on to the Bahama banks. We enlisted the help of a local lobster diver named Floyd to guide us to the prime areas, and onto the best large coral heads. Never have I seen someone who could hold their breath for that long at depths of more than 25 feet! Some trips were him down for nearly three minutes, coming up with five or six lobsters on a spear at a time. It was very impressive indeed. I, on the other hand, have trouble at those depths for longer than one minute so I wasn’t much assistance. I was much better at the cooking of the lobsters!
And so we look forward to next week when the crawfish start the crawl to our dinner tables. And here are some good ways to enjoy them!
Grilled Spiny Lobster Tails
The best way to enjoy the true lobster flavour. It’s so easy, anyone can do it!
½ cup of softened butter
¼ olive oil
1 whole shallot (or small red onion)
2 cloves of garlic
a pinch of cayenne
zest of 1 lemon and juice of ½
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
2 tablespoons of kosher or sea salt
4 Spiny Lobster tails cut in half with the shells left on.
Preparation: Combine first 6 ingredients in processor and blend until almost smooth. Stir in parsley and salt to incorporate. Spread 1 heaping teaspoon seasoned butter over each lobster tail. In a small saucepan melt remaining seasoned butter; keep warm. Grill lobster tails, shell side down, 6 minutes. Turn over and grill until meat is just opaque in center, about 2 minutes. Serve with melted butter.
Penne with Lobster, Tomato and Herbs
This fresh light pasta dish is a great summer meal. With some tweaking it can also be a cold salad.
1 lb spiny lobster meat chopped into bite size pieces
3 tablespoons of olive oil
1 medium onion diced finely
2 cloves of garlic minced
28 oz can of San Marzano tomatoes drained and chopped
½ cup of clam juice (or fish stock)
1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons of fresh basil
¾ teaspoon fresh thyme
¾ teaspoon fresh oregano
¾ teaspoon of rosemary
¼ teaspoon of cayenne
½ cup of heavy cream
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
1 lb of penne cooked in salted water to al dente
Preparation : Cut lobster tail meat into bite-size pieces. In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat; add onion and garlic and sauté about 7 minutes or until onion is soft. Add tomatoes, clam juice, vinegar, herbs and cayenne; bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Slowly stir cream into the sauce; add lobster pieces and simmer 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook pasta in boiling salted water until just tender; drain and return to pot. Pour the lobster sauce over and toss to coat.
Spiny Lobster “Roll”
A bit of a more decadent take on the classic northeastern lobster roll. The key is a beautifully fresh croissant.
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon Dijon
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Worchestershire sauce
1 teaspoon of Tobasco (preferably green)
2 green onions chopped
Slivered almonds for texture
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
1lb of spiny lobster meat cooked and chopped
4 fresh croissants sliced in half
shredded iceburg lettuce
sliced ripe tomato
Preparation :
Combine mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, lemon juice, Tobasco, Worcestershire, onion and celery in a medium bowl. Gently add lobster and almonds. Add salt and pepper to taste. To serve, fill croissants with lobster mixture. Add shredded lettuce and tomato slices
I hope you all get to get out there and enjoy the beauty of our waters. Summer is the best time of year to be out there and the lobster will be plentiful next week. Try these recipes with your catch and drop me a line to let me know if they worked out for you!
And as always if you have any other food questions, drop by our website at www.ninetynineone.com and drop us a line in the Q&A section of the site. We’re always happy to answer any questions you have. Be sure to check our website to see what our newest venture is!
Yours in good eating,
Chef Tim
Be Prepared! Food for Hurricanes
August 22, 2011
While it was a hope and a dream to never have to write this article, the time has arrived when being prepared can make the difference. With a hurricane approaching, remember that stocking up on shelf stable foods and clean drinking water is as essential for a trouble free recovery as is shutters on your house. Remember, if the power goes out for an extended period of time, refrigeration will be at a premium. Be prepared with alternatives. Here’s a list of things to remember so you can still have plenty of nutritious things to eat during and more importantly after the storm passes.
1. Canned Meat and Fish
Canned meat and fish is an excellent way to get protein and since both are fully cooked when canned, they can be eaten without any heating source if you don’t have a gas stove or grill.
2. Canned Soup or Chili
Soup and chili provide excellent nutritional value and are a flavourful and economical meal replacement. Be sure to get a variety that includes a protein, vegetable and/or beans along with rice or pasta. Avoid condensed soups that require adding water or milk.
3. Canned and Jarred Fruit
Canned/jarred fruit or diced fruit cups and applesauce all add a satisfyingly sweet touch to your hurricane meals and maintain much of the nutritional value that regular fruit has.
4. Canned Veggies
While they may not be as palatable as fresh veggies, they provide a filling and nutritious substitute while the power is out.
5. Powdered or Evaporated Milk
Shelf stable milk is full of nutrients and can help round out a more meager meal into something more satisfying.
6. Unsalted Nuts
Nuts are a nutritious and crowd pleasing snack and are full of filling protein. Be sure to only get unsalted nuts as salted nuts can make you thirsty when water supplies are limited.
7. Fruit and Vegetable Juice
While water is the most important thing for your survival, juices can give you a flavourful alternative once in a while. Unlike sodas or sport drinks, 100% fruit and veggie juices are also nutritious.
8. Single Serve Pudding
Just because it’s an emergency doesn’t mean you can’t treat yourself! Single serving shelf stable pudding cups are a fun treat!
9. Single Serving Condiments
Shelf stable condiments like ketchup, mustard, mayo, jellies, salsa and honey can make your emergency meals more flavourful!
10. Bottled Water
Each member of your family will require 2 quarts of drinking water daily. Be sure to plan ahead for this one! Nothing is more important to your survival than clean drinking water.
11. Baby Food
Most baby foods are shelf stable and have an endless variety of fruits, vegetables, grains, and meats to keep any baby, toddler and even in a pinch, an adult well fed during the hurricane.
12. Pet Food
Be sure not to forget the other member of your family! Animals require the same things as people during these emergencies. Be sure to stock up on your pet’s food supplies!
Most importantly, please be smart and plan ahead. There is always enough time to plan before a hurricane reaches us. If you don’t have shutters or hurricane proof glass be sure to board up your windows and unused doors. Place towels under any door or window sills to prevent water from coming in. Take outdoor furniture inside or submerge in your pool. Secure anything that could become a projectile in heavy winds. Put extra lines on your boats and make sure generators are full of fuel. Also, if you have a grill or gas stove, be sure to get extra propane for them. It can be the difference between cold food and hot food for a while! Be sure to also minimize your time perusing in your fridge or freezer since they can remain cold for a long time as long as they remain unopened. Even plan your first 2 days’ meals out in advance so as not to go into your fridge or freezer too much.
And as always if you have any other wine or food questions drop by our website at www.ninetynineone.com and drop us a line in the Q&A section of the site. We’re always happy to answer any questions you have.
Wishing you all a safe ride through the storm.
Chef Tim Tibbitts
Stone Crab Season is Here
October 17, 2011
It’s that time of year again. Oct 15th brings joy to eaters all over the region as Stone Crab season officially opens for another year. Stone Crab is to me the jewel of our waters. It’s also an amazingly sustainable fishery. Stone Crab have the unique ability to regenerate their claws. So when harvesting, fisherman take one claw from the crab and return them to the water to regenerate that claw again and again. One claw is left to allow the crab to defend itself from predators. To be kept, claws must be a minimum of 2.75 inches in length from the tip of the immovable finger to the first joint. 99% of all Stone Crab claws harvested are cooked on the boats then put into freezers immediately in order to let the meat release from the shell for easy extraction.
The two main ways people enjoy the claws are simply cracked from the shell and eaten warm with drawn butter or cold and eaten with a tangy mustard sauce. Both have their merits. However, if you go outside the box there are endless ways to prepare these delicious creatures of the deep. Here are some suggestions to enjoy the beauty of our Stone Crab!
Simple Hot Crab Claws
Approx. 1 lb per person Crab claws
A large pot of boiling water, seawater is best as long as it’s clean
Sauce
1 lb butter (always unsalted)
2 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons fresh minced parsley
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Drop crab claws into boiling water, a few at a time, to prevent water from getting too cold. Cook for exactly 3 minutes. Remove from the water. Crack open with a mallet and remove shells. Meanwhile in a small saucepot melt butter with minced garlic. Infuse butter with garlic flavour for 15 minutes over very low heat. Season with salt and add parsley just before serving.
Cold Crab with Mustard Sauce
Approx. 1 lb per person Crab claws
Sauce
1 tablespoon Coleman's dry mustard, or to taste
1 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon A-1 steak sauce
1/4 cup heavy cream or milk
Kosher salt to taste
Mix all sauce ingredients in a mixing bowl and allow to cool in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
Stone Crab Cakes with Spicy Mayo
2 lbs shelled crabmeat (preferable knuckle meat, carefully picked from shells)
1 Med-Large Red Onion finely diced
1 cup minced garlic chives (regular chives or green onion can be substituted)
1 cup Japanese Mayo (use regular mayo and add a little sugar to give it a little sweetness)
3 tablespoons Sambal Oelek chili paste (crushed red chili or Tabasco can work)
1 Lime juiced
Kosher salt & black pepper to taste
4 cups panko bread crumbs
4 eggs
¼ lb of butter
3 tablespoons cooking oil
Sauce
1 cup mayo
1 tablespoon Sambal oelek
1 tablespoon Sriracha chili paste (know as rooster sauce, it’s widely available)
1 Lime both zest and juice
3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
Mix all the sauce ingredients in a mixing bowl and allow to chill for 1 hour. Meanwhile take all the crab cake ingredients except the butter and oil and gently mix them together until they can be formed into cakes and everything is well incorporated. Form into crab cakes of whatever size you prefer. I find smaller cakes cook more evenly throughout and you can serve a few as an appetizer. Add 1 tablespoon of butter to a little of the oil into a hot frying pan (preferably non-stick). Fry crab cakes until golden brown on each side over medium high heat. Hold in a moderate oven of 300 degrees until all are done and ready to serve. Plate crab cakes and dress with spicy mayo, some cilantro leaves and a wedge of lime for garnish.
Thai Style Crab salad in a Papaya
1/4 cup rice vinegar (not seasoned)
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons water
4 teaspoons Asian fish sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh serrano chile (about 1; including seeds. Jalapeno can also work)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 pound picked stone crab meat
2 ripe small papayas, halved lengthwise and seeded
Whisk together vinegar, sugar, water, fish sauce, and salt in a bowl until sugar is dissolved. Add bell peppers, chile, cilantro, and crab and toss gently to combine.
Serve crab salad mounded in papaya halves.
There are so many ways to enjoy this incredible ingredient. Try it in soups or pasta dishes. Mix it with Asian flavours and cream cheese in wontons for the classic crab Rangoon. The choices are endless. Above all, remember to buy your crab from reputable sources, only of legal size and if you try catching them yourself always take only 1 claw. That way we can enjoy the beauty of the Stone Crab for years to come.
And as always if you have any other wine or food questions drop by our website at www.ninetynineone.com and drop us a line in the Q&A section of the site. We’re always happy to answer any questions you have.
Yours in good eating, Chef Tim
Happy Thanksgiving
November 15, 2011
Although here in the Bahamas we don’t officially celebrate Thanksgiving, most of the people here do take the opportunity to celebrate the American holiday with the food. Also, since I did turkey last year in this column, I think this year I will concentrate on the other good stuff on the thanksgiving table. Side dishes! I love the sides of Thanksgiving as they tend to focus on seasonal fall vegetables which are at their peak right now and so full of flavour.
There are thousands of traditional dishes for the table depending on where you’re from but we’ll focus on some of less regional and more universal style of Thanksgiving sides with a twist. Here are some of my favourites:
Baked Acorn Squash with Chestnuts, Apples and Leeks
4 acorn squash (about 1 pound each), halved lengthwise and seeded
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups diced celery
2 leeks, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced
2 teaspoons finely chopped thyme
10 ounces day-old rustic rye bread—crusts removed, bread cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 6 cups)
7 ounces vacuum-packed cooked chestnuts
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup vegetable stock or low-sodium broth (you can use chicken stock but it’s no longer vegetarian)
Preheat the oven to 350°. Brush the cut sides of the squash with olive oil and season the cavities with salt and pepper. Place the squash cut side down on two baking sheets and roast for about 25 minutes, until just tender.
Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan, melt the butter in the 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the celery, leeks and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the apples and thyme and cook over moderately high heat until the apples just start to soften, about 5 minutes. Scrape the mixture into a large bowl. Add the bread, chestnuts, parsley, cream and stock and toss well. Season with salt and pepper.
Corn Pudding with White Cheddar and Thyme
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
1 onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons minced thyme
4 cups frozen corn kernels (about 20 ounces), thawed
1/2 cup stone-ground cornmeal
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
5 large eggs
3 cups half-and-half
1 cup shredded sharp white cheddar cheese
Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter a 9-by-13-inch shallow ceramic baking dish. In a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the onion and thyme and cook over moderate heat until the onion is softened, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the corn and cornmeal and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper and let cool.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the half-and-half. In a blender or food processor, combine 1 cup of the custard with 1 cup of the corn mixture and puree until smooth. Whisk the puree into the custard. Then stir in the corn mixture, cheese, 2 teaspoons of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of pepper until well blended.
Spread the mixture in the prepared baking dish and bake for about 40 minutes, until the pudding is slightly puffed and just starting to brown. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.
MAKE AHEAD The pudding can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.
Glazed Carrots with Cardamom and Ginger
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh ginger
1 garlic clove, minced
4 cardamom pods
3 pounds carrots, sliced on the diagonal 1/3 inch thick (you can also use baby carrots left whole which I prefer)
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup fresh carrot juice
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
In a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the ginger, garlic and cardamom and cook over moderate heat until fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the carrots and sugar and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add the carrot and orange juices and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Cover with parchment paper and a tight-fitting lid and cook the carrots over low heat until tender, about 12 minutes. Uncover and cook over moderate heat until the carrots are glazed, about 5 minutes longer. Discard the ginger and cardamom pods, transfer to a bowl and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The carrots can be refrigerated overnight. Rewarm before serving.
My favourite recipe: Whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes
4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons snipped chives
Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat until tender, about 25 minutes. Drain and return the potatoes to the pot. Cook over moderate heat for 1 minute, shaking the pot to dry the potatoes.
In a large saucepan, melt the butter in the cream. Working over the saucepan, pass the hot potatoes through a ricer or food mill. Stir with a wooden spoon until light and fluffy. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the chives.
In this one the walnut toffee replaces the traditional marshmallow, which to me was always just wrong!
Five Spice Glazed Sweet Potatoes with Walnut Toffee
6 pounds orange sweet potatoes or yams, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 cup light brown sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt
Crunchy Walnut Toffee, coarsely chopped
Preheat the oven to 400°. Spread the sweet potato chunks in two 9-by-13-inch baking dishes. Add 1 cup of water to each dish, cover with foil and bake for about 25 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are barely tender. Pour off any remaining water from the baking dishes.
In a small saucepan, combine the brown sugar with the butter, five-spice powder and nutmeg and cook over moderate heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is bubbling, about 4 minutes. Pour the mixture over the potatoes, stir to coat and season with salt. Bake for about 10 minutes, basting a few times, until the potatoes are tender and nicely glazed. Sprinkle the walnut toffee over the potatoes and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The glazed sweet potatoes can be refrigerated overnight. Reheat before topping and serving.
Walnut toffee recipe:
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, water, corn syrup and butter and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderate heat, swirling the pan a few times, until a light caramel forms, about 4 minutes. Stir in the baking soda and salt. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the walnuts. Quickly spread the toffee on the prepared baking sheet as thinly as possible. Let cool completely. Crush and sprinkle over sweet potatoes.
I’m a sucker for Spanish cheeses:
Herbed Potato Gratin with Roasted Garlic and Manchego
3 heads of garlic, cloves separated but not peeled
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 quart half-and-half
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced
9 ounces aged Manchego cheese, coarsely shredded (2 cups)
5 ounces smoked Gouda cheese, shredded (1 cup)
Preheat the oven to 375°. In a 9-inch cake pan, drizzle the garlic with the oil. Cover with foil and roast for 40 minutes, until tender. Let cool, then squeeze out the cloves.
Mash the garlic to a paste and transfer to a saucepan. Add the half-and-half, thyme and rosemary and bring to a boil. Simmer over very low heat until reduced to 3 cups, 20 minutes; season with salt and pepper.
Arrange one-fourth of the potatoes in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Top with one-fourth of the shredded cheeses and drizzle lightly with the garlic cream. Repeat the layering with the remaining potatoes, cheese and cream. Pour any remaining cream on top and press the top layer of potatoes to submerge it.
Bake the gratin for about 1 1/2 hours, until golden and bubbling. Let cool for 20 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.
MAKE AHEAD The gratin can be prepared through Step 3; refrigerate overnight. Return to room temperature before baking.
So there’s a few new recipes to help you fill out your Thanksgiving table! Hopefully you’ll give them a try. And, as always, if you have any other wine or food questions drop by our website at www.ninetynineone.com and drop us a line in the Q&A section of the site. We’re always happy to answer any questions you have. Also check out our new website for our new restaurant venture here in Freeport, opening soon. Flying Fish Modern Seafood is almost here! www.flyingfishbahamas.com
Yours in good eating, Chef Tim